Day 6: Kewaskum to Loew Lake

Thursday, Sept. 3

Every day on the trail brings some kind of adventure.

Today my older daughter, Molly, was crewing me. We started out having a great time in Kewaskum (both segments), and then the start of West Bend. I had a craving for ice cream, and told Molly that the trail crossed a major road in the beginning, and that maybe there would be a McDonald's where we could get 49-cent cones. As I came down the hill near this crossing, I saw a Dairy Queen and started laughing out loud like a kid. A second later I spied a Culver's, and whooped out loud as I ran down the hill.

But Molly wasn't there waiting.

I looked around the parking lots a bit, and worried she'd misunderstood and gone to the next trail parking spot. I went to call her and realized I'd made a rookie mistake -- I'd left my phone in the car with her, assuming I wouldn't need it. I spied a woman getting out of her car, and ran over and asked to use her phone. I called Molly, but got no answer so I left a message saying I was continuing on, hoping she'd be at the next parking spot. 

She wasn't.

Her phone is old and cranky; what if it wasn't working and she never got my message? I could probably find water if I kept going, but I had no food and was getting hungry. Rookie mistake #2: I didn't have any money on me. 

I passed the next West Bend parking lot and she wasn't there, either. But thank goodness she was at the third! Apparently she'd gone up the trail to meet me back at the ice cream stop -- about 3 minutes after I'd ran by I-scream-you-scream-we-all-scream-for-ice-creaming. 

The rest of the day was nice, although it was too sunny and too hot for a long hike. But Molly found Jim's Place in Slinger, right on the trail, and got us the BEST ICE CREAM EVER! Wow, was it good. Way better than a McDonald's cone for sure. Even better than Culver's. 

I saw about six deer in the Holy Hill section, including a buck. 

Day 5: Elkhart Lake to Kewaskum

The Northern Kettle in one day -- phew! 

Today my college friend and roommate, Mary Jo, took a day off to crew me. I started a mile or two shy of the Greenbush segment near Elkhart Lake. Then I rolled right through the Northern Kettle.

It was a beautiful day, if hot and humid. But at least I was in the shaded forest the entire time. I was so impressed with the Parnell esker. I don't remember noticing it as much coming the other way. Or maybe I was extra tired that day. Who knows. But the entire stretch was so pretty.

Mary Jo was waiting for me in the Butler Lake parking area and a forest ranger, I think it was, began running her plates! She explained she was crewing a friend who was walking the entire Ice Age Trail, and he said, "Well, that's ambitious!"

There weren't too many mosquitoes out, so that was great. But the ones that were still buzzing around all seemed to fly up my left nostril. Only the left one. What's that about?!

Here are some things I've learned so far.

* Ice is magical.
* Ladies, put some Saran wherever your bra chafes -- it's way better than Body Glide or petroleum jelly or anything I've ever used.
* Cheese curds and string cheese are great trail food. The salt is good for you, plus the protein is filling.

Day 4: Manitowoc to Elkhart Lake

This might have been the most challenging day I've ever spent on the trail. I had 28-ish miles on the road, heading from Manitowoc to La Budde Creek east of Elkhart Lake. The forecast, I thought, was for a high in the low 80s. That's hot. At least for me, someone who melts when the temps rise above 78. And there's no shade the entire time.

My friend Mary Jo dropped me off at the end of the Manitowoc segment and I was off. It was hot right from the start. A few hours in I stopped at a house and asked for water from their hose. Permission given.

Then I arrived in Osman, a town on the connecting route I'd crafted (shorter than the one the IATA lists). There was a bar-restaurant that had just opened (phew!) and I was able to score a BLT and two bottles of water for just $6.25. Oh, and they also dumped a ton of ice cubes into my Camelbak.

NOTE: Ice cannot be overrated on a hot day. Any water is life-saving, but drinking really cold water totally rejuvenates you. I could have kissed the woman who dumped several handfuls in.

Oh -- one of the women at the place, the Smiling Moose Saloon & Grill, said, "I saw you walking this morning in Manitowoc!" She was shocked. I just laughed.

In the afternoon, my water running low, I found a Methodist church whose secretary was about to leave for the day. Score -- more water. But no ice cubes. :( A few hours later some man waved to me from his lawn, so I boldly asked for water and ice cubes. He complied, and made my day.

I was amazed when I finally reached La Budde Creek. In 2013, it hadn't impressed me. It seemed a bit scruffy and nondescript, but today it was beautiful. There were vast fields of goldenrod (I think -- I'm not good with plants) that were just stunning. And the paths were nicely maintained. And after roasting in the sun all day, any shaded trail would be heavenly!

Mary Jo picked me up at the end of the day and informed me that temps hit the 90s today, and that it was still 86 when she got me. No wonder I thought it was such a brutal day! More of the same is in store, but at least I'll be in shaded Kettle Moraine.

Day 3: Tisch Mills to Manitowoc

I started off the day getting shuttled by Bob Fay, a section-hiker I met on the trail in 2013. He's from Two Rivers and will be finishing the IAT later this year. Dolly McNulty also helped today, first getting my bags from Bob, and then taking me to a friend's place at the end of the day. You can't beat Trail Angels!

Both Bob and Dolly warned me that the 17th Street bridge was still out in Two Rivers, so I'd have to take a 10-block detour. I was bummed, since I'm hiking a lot of miles every day.

Anyway, the day was great. The new East River segment is a gem. Kudos to all who worked on it! Point Beach, one of my favorites from 2013, was as nice as I remembered. This year, Dolly said, Lake Michigan's water levels are at a 30-year high. So instead of a nice walk along the beach, I waded about 1.5 miles in the water and had to walk through scrub another .5 miles when the water was simply too deep. The scrub wasn't that great, but I actually loved wading. I had my Keen sandals with me, and the cold water felt so good on my aching feet!

Someone loves me -- the minute I was approaching the 17th Street bridge, a crew was taking down the barriers and opening it up! I think I was actually the first pedestrian to cross it. Two kids on bikes went over before me. I was so excited to avoid that detour!

I never seem to pass restaurants or stores when I'm hungry, but today I got a 49-cent cone at McDonald's in Two Rivers -- score once more!

Just as I was heading down Clay Pit Road, a woman in a scooter called out to me to do an extra mile for her. We stopped to chat; she has MS and is blind in one eye, yet was so cheerful. I promised her I'd hike one extra mile today and that from now on, I will dedicate my last mile of the day to her -- Karen Zander. 

Day 2: Kewaunee to Tisch Mills

Sunday, Aug. 30

A decent day for hiking. It was cloudy/foggy in the morning, so I didn't get the best look at the Ahnapee rail-trail; the section I was on is said to be some of the most scenic rail-trail in the state. Rats.

From there it was a long connecting route to Tisch Mills. A huge group of bikers went past, which was fun to watch. 

Tisch Mills was the same. The northern section was overgrown, while the southern slice was quite pretty. Despite the sign telling me wading was safer than walking on the rocks, I walked on the rocks because they were so flat and the water calm. But the rocks had lots of moss on them, and sure enough I slipped and got wet. Ha! Served me right. 

Oh -- there is now a nice sign on Hwy. B identifying the Tisch Mills segment for eastbound hikers. I remember struggling to figure out where the segment started when I was hiking west-east. 

Day 1: Sturgeon Bay to Kewaunee

Almost two years to the day when I started my first thru-hike from St. Croix Falls, I find myself at the eastern terminus, where I ended, ready to start another thru-hike. I'm excited, yet worried. My previous hike was the experience of a lifetime, yet it was hard. I'm suddenly remembering all of the aches and pains at night. The blisters and sore muscles. The overwhelming fatigue. But I'm here now, and there's nothing to do but start walking.

Two years ago, my first day was spent in 90-degree heat and high humidity. The humidity was up today, but it was cool and drizzly. Nice! My hubby, Ed, was crewing me, and everything went pretty smoothly.

I forgot how long the rail-trail segment was, but it was so enjoyable. I saw great blue heron, a huge woodpecker, cardinals, a doe and her babies and more. A family was out near Forestville playing with "poppy seeds." They're tiny orange flowers that have a tiny green-bean-like pod in their center. If you squeeze the ends of a pod, it bursts open and edible seeds pop out. They taste like edamame. You learn something new every day!

The connecting route to Kewaunee got quite foggy several times, but I was just glad to avoid the heat. Which is coming. Sigh. The forecast in this part of the state calls for temps hitting 90 for much of the next week. 

Valderi Returns

When I finished my thru-run/hike of the Ice Age Trail in October 2013, I knew it wasn't the end. The minute I touched the eastern terminus marker in Potawatomi State Park, I was seized with the desire to thru-hike the trail all over again, this time heading east to west. And I didn't want to wait a long time to do it, either.

So here I am two years later, preparing another thru-hike. I'm dreadfully unorganized this time, having had a very busy year work-wise. Yet I'm confidant I'll be fine. I love the trail, and the trail loves me. 

A week from today I'll be heading to Sturgeon Bay, where I'll spend the night before striking out bright and early on Saturday morning, Aug. 29, with my wonderful hubby, Ed, crewing me the first two days. My main goal on this trip is to avoid contracting cellulitis on the bottoms of my feet as I did last time (ouch)!

The photo below shows the food and gear I'm gathering together. You need a lot to power you along for 1,100 miles!

Melanie, aka Valderi