Day 8: Waterville to Blackhawk

Those of you who know me know I HATE hot weather. My favorite season is fall, then winter, and spring and summer are tied for last. Some say I should do my thru-hikes in spring, with its cool weather, but I guess I fear/hate ticks more than heat. Summer is out because of the heat and mosquitoes. Winter is out for obvious reasons. That leaves fall. Ideally, I'd hike in October. But I always have a work conference then, so I start in September and hope for cool weather.

In 2013, I complained about an endless string of days in the upper 70s and low 80s. How I wish I had those back! Today was yet another sunny day in the 90s. Grrr! Oh well. What can you do but go hike?!

Waterville was pleasant, and then I plunged into the Southern Kettle. Eagle was one of my favorite sections, as always -- pretty, plus reasonably nice terrain. And Blackhawk was lovely. But gosh, it was hot. We saw a fair number of people on the trail, being a holiday weekend, and everyone looked beet red and exhausted. And while there weren't many bugs out, there always seemed to be one mosquito buzzing in my eyes, nose or ears. Just one, but gosh, it was annoying! I wanted to say, "Just bite me, suck my blood, and leave!" 

My hands and fingers are swollen from the heat, which isn't unusual. But I've got swelling up half of my arm. And lots of rashy spots on my legs, even though I wear calf sleeves. Is that from the plants? Must be, I guess.

Day 7: Loew Lake to Waterville

Friday, Sept. 4

My husband, Ed, took over today. It was supposed to be in the 90s again (boo), but cloudy all day. It was cloudy for the first hour or so, and then the sun came out when I hit the Merton segment and stayed out. Sigh. 

Two years ago I walked on the Bugline rail-trail when it was still being built; it was lumpy dirt. The real trail alongside was too overgrown to navigate. This time the rail-trail was beautiful, smooth blacktop, but the real trail was definitely navigable, so I chose the latter. During the hike, I ran into an IAT volunteer mowing the trail! I didn't get his name; he wasn't too talkative, likely due to the heat. But his photo is below. And yes, I thanked him for maintaining the trail for us! :)

It was fun to hike along the golf course. In 2013, I couldn't find the first part of the trail and was stopping golfers to figure out where to go (they didn't know, but I eventually found it). This time it was easily marked, and I believe the path was slightly different than two years ago. 

With the ice cream from Jim's Place still in my mind, I sent Ed to find ice cream in Delafield. We got some from Rocky Mountain Confectioners. It was good, but not even close to the cones from Jim's Place. 

Lapham Peak was stunning. I tried to take photos of the oak savanna, but they're pretty dark. But it was gorgeous. The re-route was also very nice (kudos!), and I even stopped to climb the tower with Ed, despite my aching feet. 

The day ended doing a little bit of the Waterville segment. I remember the part off the rail-trail being scruffy in 2013, but it was very nice today.

When we finished, we stopped for a fish fry at the Delafield Brewhaus. Wow. The service was quite slow, but the fish fry was one of the best we've had in ages, and their beer was fantastic, too. I ordered a stout, which was so thick and creamy Ed said it was like a latte. 

Day 6: Kewaskum to Loew Lake

Thursday, Sept. 3

Every day on the trail brings some kind of adventure.

Today my older daughter, Molly, was crewing me. We started out having a great time in Kewaskum (both segments), and then the start of West Bend. I had a craving for ice cream, and told Molly that the trail crossed a major road in the beginning, and that maybe there would be a McDonald's where we could get 49-cent cones. As I came down the hill near this crossing, I saw a Dairy Queen and started laughing out loud like a kid. A second later I spied a Culver's, and whooped out loud as I ran down the hill.

But Molly wasn't there waiting.

I looked around the parking lots a bit, and worried she'd misunderstood and gone to the next trail parking spot. I went to call her and realized I'd made a rookie mistake -- I'd left my phone in the car with her, assuming I wouldn't need it. I spied a woman getting out of her car, and ran over and asked to use her phone. I called Molly, but got no answer so I left a message saying I was continuing on, hoping she'd be at the next parking spot. 

She wasn't.

Her phone is old and cranky; what if it wasn't working and she never got my message? I could probably find water if I kept going, but I had no food and was getting hungry. Rookie mistake #2: I didn't have any money on me. 

I passed the next West Bend parking lot and she wasn't there, either. But thank goodness she was at the third! Apparently she'd gone up the trail to meet me back at the ice cream stop -- about 3 minutes after I'd ran by I-scream-you-scream-we-all-scream-for-ice-creaming. 

The rest of the day was nice, although it was too sunny and too hot for a long hike. But Molly found Jim's Place in Slinger, right on the trail, and got us the BEST ICE CREAM EVER! Wow, was it good. Way better than a McDonald's cone for sure. Even better than Culver's. 

I saw about six deer in the Holy Hill section, including a buck. 

Day 5: Elkhart Lake to Kewaskum

The Northern Kettle in one day -- phew! 

Today my college friend and roommate, Mary Jo, took a day off to crew me. I started a mile or two shy of the Greenbush segment near Elkhart Lake. Then I rolled right through the Northern Kettle.

It was a beautiful day, if hot and humid. But at least I was in the shaded forest the entire time. I was so impressed with the Parnell esker. I don't remember noticing it as much coming the other way. Or maybe I was extra tired that day. Who knows. But the entire stretch was so pretty.

Mary Jo was waiting for me in the Butler Lake parking area and a forest ranger, I think it was, began running her plates! She explained she was crewing a friend who was walking the entire Ice Age Trail, and he said, "Well, that's ambitious!"

There weren't too many mosquitoes out, so that was great. But the ones that were still buzzing around all seemed to fly up my left nostril. Only the left one. What's that about?!

Here are some things I've learned so far.

* Ice is magical.
* Ladies, put some Saran wherever your bra chafes -- it's way better than Body Glide or petroleum jelly or anything I've ever used.
* Cheese curds and string cheese are great trail food. The salt is good for you, plus the protein is filling.

Day 4: Manitowoc to Elkhart Lake

This might have been the most challenging day I've ever spent on the trail. I had 28-ish miles on the road, heading from Manitowoc to La Budde Creek east of Elkhart Lake. The forecast, I thought, was for a high in the low 80s. That's hot. At least for me, someone who melts when the temps rise above 78. And there's no shade the entire time.

My friend Mary Jo dropped me off at the end of the Manitowoc segment and I was off. It was hot right from the start. A few hours in I stopped at a house and asked for water from their hose. Permission given.

Then I arrived in Osman, a town on the connecting route I'd crafted (shorter than the one the IATA lists). There was a bar-restaurant that had just opened (phew!) and I was able to score a BLT and two bottles of water for just $6.25. Oh, and they also dumped a ton of ice cubes into my Camelbak.

NOTE: Ice cannot be overrated on a hot day. Any water is life-saving, but drinking really cold water totally rejuvenates you. I could have kissed the woman who dumped several handfuls in.

Oh -- one of the women at the place, the Smiling Moose Saloon & Grill, said, "I saw you walking this morning in Manitowoc!" She was shocked. I just laughed.

In the afternoon, my water running low, I found a Methodist church whose secretary was about to leave for the day. Score -- more water. But no ice cubes. :( A few hours later some man waved to me from his lawn, so I boldly asked for water and ice cubes. He complied, and made my day.

I was amazed when I finally reached La Budde Creek. In 2013, it hadn't impressed me. It seemed a bit scruffy and nondescript, but today it was beautiful. There were vast fields of goldenrod (I think -- I'm not good with plants) that were just stunning. And the paths were nicely maintained. And after roasting in the sun all day, any shaded trail would be heavenly!

Mary Jo picked me up at the end of the day and informed me that temps hit the 90s today, and that it was still 86 when she got me. No wonder I thought it was such a brutal day! More of the same is in store, but at least I'll be in shaded Kettle Moraine.

Day 3: Tisch Mills to Manitowoc

I started off the day getting shuttled by Bob Fay, a section-hiker I met on the trail in 2013. He's from Two Rivers and will be finishing the IAT later this year. Dolly McNulty also helped today, first getting my bags from Bob, and then taking me to a friend's place at the end of the day. You can't beat Trail Angels!

Both Bob and Dolly warned me that the 17th Street bridge was still out in Two Rivers, so I'd have to take a 10-block detour. I was bummed, since I'm hiking a lot of miles every day.

Anyway, the day was great. The new East River segment is a gem. Kudos to all who worked on it! Point Beach, one of my favorites from 2013, was as nice as I remembered. This year, Dolly said, Lake Michigan's water levels are at a 30-year high. So instead of a nice walk along the beach, I waded about 1.5 miles in the water and had to walk through scrub another .5 miles when the water was simply too deep. The scrub wasn't that great, but I actually loved wading. I had my Keen sandals with me, and the cold water felt so good on my aching feet!

Someone loves me -- the minute I was approaching the 17th Street bridge, a crew was taking down the barriers and opening it up! I think I was actually the first pedestrian to cross it. Two kids on bikes went over before me. I was so excited to avoid that detour!

I never seem to pass restaurants or stores when I'm hungry, but today I got a 49-cent cone at McDonald's in Two Rivers -- score once more!

Just as I was heading down Clay Pit Road, a woman in a scooter called out to me to do an extra mile for her. We stopped to chat; she has MS and is blind in one eye, yet was so cheerful. I promised her I'd hike one extra mile today and that from now on, I will dedicate my last mile of the day to her -- Karen Zander. 

Day 2: Kewaunee to Tisch Mills

Sunday, Aug. 30

A decent day for hiking. It was cloudy/foggy in the morning, so I didn't get the best look at the Ahnapee rail-trail; the section I was on is said to be some of the most scenic rail-trail in the state. Rats.

From there it was a long connecting route to Tisch Mills. A huge group of bikers went past, which was fun to watch. 

Tisch Mills was the same. The northern section was overgrown, while the southern slice was quite pretty. Despite the sign telling me wading was safer than walking on the rocks, I walked on the rocks because they were so flat and the water calm. But the rocks had lots of moss on them, and sure enough I slipped and got wet. Ha! Served me right. 

Oh -- there is now a nice sign on Hwy. B identifying the Tisch Mills segment for eastbound hikers. I remember struggling to figure out where the segment started when I was hiking west-east.