March 21: Santa Croya de Tera to Rionegro del Puente

Today could have been a real coup, but sad to say it wasn't. When we got to Santa Croya de Tera last night, Ana (the owner of the popular albergue Casa Anita) told us that tomorrow and the next day or two were special. The neighboring church in Santa Marta de Tera has this religious depiction near the altar carved in stone. Twice a year (March and September), the light shines through a window in the church and illuminates this carving. 

We arranged to be dropped off at the church shortly before the prime viewing hour (8:45 a.m.). Keep in mind we've had sunshine all week. Today dawned cloudy. About 2-3 dozen people were at the church, including a lot of media. Sadly, nothing special could be seen due to the clouds. Oh well.

Because of the delay, we didn't end up starting our day's walk until 9:45 a.m. The day initially was warm and, ironically, got a bit sunny. But then it got cloudy, windy and cool. 

Thanks to Maura's presence, I was able to check out a few spots where pilgrims can take one of two routes around a town. A fellow pilgrim told us in one town that it was supposed to rain in 2-3 hours. We had about 10 miles left, and tried to hoof it.

Unfortunately, Maura's tendonitis had gotten quite painful, so we couldn't walk too fast. Luckily, we beat the rain. It's hard to believe Maura leaves tomorrow night!

March 19: Zamora to Granja de Moreruela

Today was another long day -- about 28 miles. We left Zamora and passed through one small town, then headed toward the next, Montamarta. There's an enormous amount of highway construction going on here (as it had been when I last passed 2 years ago), but this time it's quite confusing.

While on the trail, we suddenly came upon a new bridge. New as in the road bed wasn't finished. So this bridge was new, as was another road leading off to the side. No Camino markers in sight, presumably because everything was so new. So which way to go? There were all sorts of concrete blocks that looked very similar to Camino markers on the side road, except there were no arrows or shells on them. Was this a sign for pilgrims to take that path? If not, what were they for?

We took the path, and ended up on the highway. We tried to use our maps to see where to go with no luck. Using my app, I called Montamarta's ayuntamiento (town hall) and spoke with a woman who told us to take the highway into town. We were only about 2 miles away by then. We continued to walk along the highway, but it was so busy and pretty dangerous. Suddenly across a vast farm field we saw a Camino marker on a farm road, so we delicately picked our way through the crops (being careful to step on the dirt, not the plants) and got back on track. I assume we should have taken the bridge. 

After Montamarta we went through a few more towns without incident. Finally we had only about 3 miles to go to reach our lovely casa rural (akin to a B&B) when we stumbled upon more highway construction. Once again, markings were largely missing. I called the casa rural owner, but she had no idea what to do. I was able to flag down a highway worker who randomly was driving down the unfinished road and we made it into town safely. Phew!

We cleaned up in the inn and bought groceries at a small tienda (store), then had dinner at the local bar. There were 3 German pilgrims there, some of the only ones we've seen all week.

March 20: Granja de Moreruela to Santa Croya de Tera

Today we faced a nearly 50-kilometer hike. Intense. But what countryside! We left Granja and wandered throughout gorgeous land before coming upon the Esla River and the old Roman bridge spanning it. We crossed that as Maura noted the opposing cliffs were like Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin. Ha! Little did she know the Camino runs around and up those hills, so we experienced a hike/climb very similar to what we do at Devil’s Lake.

One exciting stop was Faramontanos de Tábara, where we ate our lunch outside the ayuntamiento (city hall) and realized we could tap into its free WiFi.

Heading out from Faramontanos, we crossed major highway construction that’s been underway since I last came through (fall 2011), and then some flooded areas that required smarts (me taking off my shoes and wading) or guts (Maura leaping across small chasms).

We made it to Tábara in time to take out some $$ from an ATM, then were under the gun to get to Santa Croya de Tera before it got too dark/late out.

Oops.

Maura started to feel some tendonitis, so we couldn’t run much. Plus the highway construction areas were a bit confusing. Got to Santa Croya around 7 pm, but then some minor (but time-consuming) confusion with plans for our overnight stay. Long story short, ate dinner at 10 pm, headed to bed right after and are excited to see what tomorrow brings.

March 18: El Cubo to Zamora

Another glorious, sunny day in Spain. But let’s pick up from last night. Berto, our host, chatted with us at the end of our meal, which was fantastic: a tasty fish soup, fried eggs and beef. I mentioned the confusing “sin agua” and “con agua” signs, and he promptly called a Camino expert/friend to explain. Apparently it was a misinterpretation. The signs were referring to a stream that ran under the highway. If the stream was “sin agua” (or dry), you could continue on the normal route under the highway. But if the stream had water, you needed to detour up and around.

So today we left Berto and his wife and began the trek to Zamora, about 20 miles. We looked everywhere for our sunscreen but couldn’t find it, so Maura wore long sleeves and pants. I was in shorts and hoped for the best.

The first leg was about 8 miles to a small town. It was a beautiful hike/run through gorgeous countryside. I’ve been on this stretch once before, in fall. It’s amazing how different it looks in the spring, when everything is fresh and green. Once again, a lot of the confusing signage has been cleaned up, and it was pretty easy to find your way.

The second and final stretch was about 12 miles. The miles seemed to fly by until we had 2-3 left. Then it seemed to take forever. Maybe it was the footing all day; our feet really began to hurt. We got to Zamora and our lodging, one of Spain’s famous Paradors, just as our luggage was being delivered. We each took an ice bath to help our muscles, then headed out into town.

I’d spent a few days in Zamora previously, but this time I discovered more of the city’s impressive old walls and a cool castle, complete with a moat. Unfortunately we’ve been stymied by WiFi lately. Our albergue didn’t have it last night, and while the Parador is supposed to have it in every room, we can’t get it in ours and are both too tired to drag our laptops to the main level.

March 17: Salamanca to El Cubo del Vino

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! We keep forgetting it’s today, because there’s no green beer here, corned beef and cabbage, shamrocks or any other sign of this popular holiday.

Today was another beautiful, sunny day. We were looking at about 23 miles, but not daunted.

We headed out around 9, crossing the Roman bridge into Salamanca’s old town. The city has sparse signage directing pilgrims, but a Spanish guidebook made mention of a few markers here that I hadn’t been able to find before. With Maura helping, we combed the streets and found them, so I’ll have to amend my app a bit.

We hit our first town about 5 miles out, with two more in quick succession. Maura got to see one of my favorite interesting/unusual VDLP spots: a home with a large gate topped with two dice. In one of the towns, I saw a dog trotting down the street with a big stick in its mouth. When it got closer, we realized it was carrying a baguette! If I had gotten my camera out quickly enough, that would have been an award-winning shot. It was pretty comical.

Exiting the third town, I’d been spooked by two aggressive German Shepherds back in 2011. This time I’m happy to report that while they were still there, they were locked behind a secure gate. At this point we had about 12.5 miles to our destination, El Cubo del Vino. The Camino runs along a major highway for most of these miles, which isn’t too scenic. In one part, it leads you under the highway and across the road for the shortest jog, then back under the highway and onto the same road. I couldn’t figure out why last time.

This time there was a sign on one of the concrete pillars holding up the highway stating that following the same path, which hugs the west side of the highway, was the Camino “sin agua” (without water), while going across the road and back under was following the Camino “con agua” (with water). Did that mean there was a water fountain if you went across the road? Or were they saying crossing the road meant you’d have to deal with a flooded area?

Since there were two of us, I sent Maura to take the shorter, “sin agua” route, while I took the longer, “con agua” route. Ha! Maura came running up to me minutes later. She’d gone a short distance on her route and it was totally, majorly flooded. My route was dry. Someone needs to correct those arrows!

About 1.5 miles from our destination, the owner of our private albergue for the night, Berto, was waiting by the side of the road. He welcomed us to town and gave us a map to his place. How nice! We got there in short order, and his friendly wife showed us to our room and gave us water, beer and a lovely sheep’s milk cheese. She’s now doing our laundry. You can’t beat that.

March 16: San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca!

I love Salamanca! It's long been one of my most favorite cities along the VDLP. But I'm way ahead of myself.

Last night Maura and I had one of the best meals I've had in Spain. The owner of the inn (Mari Carmen of Carreras VII) made us a wonderful soup with cod, chick peas, rice and spinach as an appetizer. Then we had a nice little beef filet with an amazing watercress salad. (It took her hours to clean and prepare the watercress; she worked on it the entire time we were on our laptops in the bar before dinner, which was at least 2 hours.)

This morning at breakfast, Mari Carmen showed us Camino-themed bracelets she sells, made by her sister-in-law. While you can buy Camino-themed gifts everywhere on the popular Camino Frances, VDLPers usually have to wait until they reach Santiago to find something. Glad to see things are improving in this regard.

With bracelets in hand (on wrist), Maura and I headed out around 9:30 a.m. It was a beautiful, sunny day and reasonably warm, despite a stiff wind most of the way. Apparently the Camino is a popular cycling route here south of Salamanca. Being a Sunday, cyclists were out in droves, zipping past us all day long.

Today's walk was about 15 miles, so a pretty short day. We ran about 5 of those miles. The route went through a cattle ranch at one point, and some of the cattle were so close we could have touched them. Cattle often don't really like it when you walk that closely to them, so I'm always nervous when the VDLP runs through cattle. Luckily they didn't pay any attention to us. 

The route was pretty dry today, so no wet feet. But one big disappointment was the entrance to Salamanca. When I entered the city two years ago, the entrance was lined with little miliario-type stone markers on each side of the path. There were dozens of them, and it was like walking the red carpet. You felt Salamanca was reaching out and welcome all pilgrims. Today, only four were set out. One man told me he wasn't sure what had happened, but was guessing the rest had been stolen or damaged. Sad.

Got to Salamanca around 3 and checked into the Parador. Paradors are beautiful government-run hotels, typically in historic old buildings. This one is modern-day construction, but it's very pretty and offers killer views of the cathedrals. Once we cleaned up, it was time to check out Salamanca. 

The city is known for its university, once the most prestigious in all of Europe, and its two cathedrals. We were able to tour the cathedral towers, which afford stunning views of the city, plus the interior of one of the cathedrals. Little fact we learned: St. Ignatius of Loyola was once imprisoned in the cathedral dungeon for 5 days. I think the man said it was because there was no priest there at the time, or maybe just that day or hour, so St. Ignatius began preaching. The locals (government?) didn't appreciate that. Anyway, it was well worth the admission fee (3.75 euros). 

The university was closed, but we walked past it, along with the famous Shell House. Stopped in the impressive main plaza. Bought some empanadas at a place I discovered in the past, plus some candy to help fuel us tomorrow. Now we're just waiting to eat dinner.

March 15: Fuenterroble to San Pedro de Rozados

Today dawned sunny and cool. We had about 17 miles ahead of us, including hiking up to the highest point on the entire VDLP. Fueled by cafe con leches, we headed out around 9 a.m.

Since I was last here in 2011, much has changed (for the better). There are several new explanatory plaques about the ancient Roman road, which the VDLP follows, including one sort of recreated section that gives you an idea of its width and general contours. 

At the base of Pico de la Duena, the highest point, there used to be a marked detour for cyclists or anyone wishing to avoid climbing the steep, rocky hill. Now it's crossed off. I think I know why. Last night, our casa rural hosts said the markings on the desvio (detour) were terrible, and many cyclists and other peregrinos routinely got lost. One landowner was also intentionally hindering pilgrims, I think they said. Long story short, you must make the climb. But it's not bad at all.

When we got to the top, I pulled out some of Riley's fur and Maura and I each gave Riles a little eulogy of sorts before scattering his fur to the wind. RIP, Riley!

When we emerged onto the highway leading to San Pedro, I was interested to see that now you're guided off-road for most of the way. This is much nicer than walking 7-8 miles on the highway, as you had to do in the past. There were some flooded parts we couldn't hop over, though, so we did spend a little time on the road.

Eventually we reached the path to San Pedro. Interestingly, new Camino signage tells pilgrims to continue along the road, bypassing San Pedro and heading straight to Morille. Since we're staying in San Pedro tonight, we went there. Locals assured us San Pedro is still the original, official Camino, and politics is behind the change -- lots of politicians live in Morille, and there's a government-run albergue they'd like lots of pilgrims to patronize.

Our stop tonight is VII Carreras, a wonderful hotel/bar/restaurant. Mari Carmen, the proprietor, is lovely, as is the entire facility. Bonus: She offered to wash our clothes. That always wins my heart when I'm hiking!