My IAT adventure by the numbers

I previously talked about how I wasn't counting anything during my trek -- miles down, miles to go, segments completed, counties passed through, etc. It seemed too overwhelming. Now that I'm finished, it seems fun. So here are some figures to consider:

• Miles walked/run: Approximately 1,100. (It's hard to be exact, when you consider backtracking, new segments, shortcuts from the suggested connecting routes, etc.)
• Toenails lost: 3 (almost 4) and counting
• Pounds lost: 11
• Pants worn: 0
• Shoes rotated through: 6-8, plus 1 pair of Keen sandals
• Bottles of bug spray used: 3
• Honey Stinger Energy Waffles consumed: About 48
• Honey Stinger Energy Chews consumed: About 24
• Energy bars consumed: At least 35
• Bags of cheese curds consumed: 3 (great trail snack, I've discovered)
• Seroogy's chocolate bars consumed: 35
• Days it rained on me: 1
• Days I was cold: A few hours at the end of 1 day
• Days I was hot: 36
• Times I cried (briefly) in frustration because I was lost: 1-2
• Burrs picked off myself: Hundreds
• Thru- and section hikers I met: 7
• Bears I saw: 4 (mother and 3 cubs, seen from our car)
• Miles Ed and Maura put on our car, crewing me: 2,800
• Days I wore make-up: 0
• Days I fixed my hair: 0
• Days I wore my compression socks: 36
• Days I loved what I was doing: Every. Single. Day!

Last Day! Forestville, Sturgeon Bay

This was a great last day.

The forecast called for rain until about 9 a.m., then sunshine. I wanted to leave at 8 a.m., but it was raining pretty steadily then and I figured it wasn't smart to get soaked right off the bat, so I waited until about 8:45, when the rain had subsided to a light drizzle. Headed out of Algoma and onto the Ahnapee State Trail.

The trail was a rather typical rail-trail: flat, easily runnable and scenic. Once again I was surprised by the number of people fishing. The weather stayed overcast and slightly drizzly for much of the way. Ed arrived when I was about 2/3 of the way along the trail, and joined my parents in supporting me.

I arrived into Sturgeon Bay around noon or so. The sun broke out, and suddenly the weather was gorgeous. The path through town was scenic and well marked. Potawatomie State Park was pretty technical, filled with slick rocks and roots. I was dying to  run the last few miles (I'd been able to run all the way from Algoma), but after tripping and slipping a few times just while walking, I decided to play it safe and walk the rest of the way in.

I hit the Eastern Terminus at 2:06 p.m., and found my two sisters and their families waiting for me as a surprise, along with my parents. Ed had walked me in. What a great ending! We celebrated with lots of photos and champagne, plus a walk up the tower, which provided killer views of the lake. And the Packers won -- what more can you ask for?!

I'll be posting some post-trek thoughts in the next few days, so keep reading. Plus, starting the end of the month, I'll be tackling the Natchez Trace, another one of our nation's 11 National Scenic Trails. The Trace is a trail you either drive or bike, and Ed and I will be biking its entire 444 miles. (That seems so lame after walking/running 1,100 miles.)

Can't forget to mention that I stayed at At the Water's Edge in Algoma last night. It was a comfy spot right on the shores of Lake Michigan, with great food and friendly innkeepers. Keep it in mind if you're on the trail. Tonight Ed and I are at the Inn at Cedar Crossing in Sturgeon Bay. Had a great soak in its whirlpool, into which I dumped eucalyptus-scented epsom salts. Now I'm enjoying some of their tasty, soft chocolate chip cookies -- and the thought that I DID IT!

Day 35: Point Beach, Mishicot, Tisch Mills, Connecting Route

Into every life, a little rain must fall ...

Last night, we had rain. Today's forecast was for a 50% chance of rain all day. This time I didn't avoid it. I finished the Point Beach section without rain. There were some school kids building shelters in the Rahr School Forest section, which was cute. They posed with Buddy, my SATW teddy bear.

Next was a +5-mile jog to Mishicot. That's when it began to rain. It wasn't too bad, but I did get pretty soaked and had to change my shoes and socks for the second time. It's Homecoming weekend in Mishicot, and lots of homes had been T.P.'d. Not fun to clean up, especially if it rains after your yard is T.P.'d. Unfortunately, we know all about this. Anyway, Mishicot is a cute town. The trail takes you through their park, which features the East Twin River, I believe. Lots of people were fishing around its dam; there's some reason there's good fishing there, but I didn't stop to reach the explanatory sign because of the rain. You also walk through an old covered bridge and past a few other historic sites. The end of the section takes you up and down a small esker, then through a farmer's field.

Ran a few miles over to the Tisch Mills segment, which I initially missed. It's in a weird spot, coming from the west. There's a mowed path on someone's front lawn, which goes up a slope. The trail markers (small) are at the top of the slope, not very visible. The first section was quite pretty, running through a forest and over a small stream. I'd put plastic bags over my shoes in the hopes of keeping them dry and avoiding a third shoe/sock change. At the stream, a sign notes it's safer to wade than try to cross on stones. What about trying to cross on stones with plastic bags on your feet? Summoning up all the core strength I've developed from my stability and core ball classes (thanks John and Denise!), I successfully navigated the creek crossing. O.K., I cannot tell a lie -- I did make one little slip. But my foot didn't get submerged, so it was still successful.

There was a short road walk, then the next segment of Tisch Mills. This is clearly the part the guidebook discusses when it talks about wet, poorly maintained trail. The path runs along the East Twin River, and would be beautiful if it was tamed. Unfortunately, it was fairly overgrown, especially with those prickly weeds you get in your yard. So it was a gross, uncomfortable slog through wet, overgrown vegetation. Even though the trail was relatively short, I once again had to change my shoes and socks afterwards.

I knocked off about 13 miles of a 19-mile connecting route to end the day, with rain on and off. A few fun/funny things:

• I saw a sign advertising "Grass Drags." According to the sign, these have something to do with vintage snowmobiles. But what, exactly, is a grass drag?
• Through the fog, I thought I saw some big animals in the road ahead of me. Then I thought it was an Amish buggy. I finally realized a really old tractor was coming down the road towards me. The funny thing was that the driver was a young, long-haired guy, talking on a cell phone.
• I saw a couple homes with what appeared to be the French flag colors/striping. This is an area of the state where the French first settled, so I'm assuming it's French pride.

Tonight I'm staying at the Red Forest B&B in Two Rivers. I love this place. I discovered it last year. It's a beautiful arts-and-crafts styled home, and the Rodewalds are wonderful hosts. Kay offered to do my laundry when she heard I had a bag of wet, dirty socks with me, and you can't beat the food here -- not to mention amenities like Beerntsen chocolates in your room. Since the IAT runs through town, it's an uber-convenient place to stay, too.

Two more days!

Day 36: Connecting Route, Kewaunee River, Connecting Route

I'm like a horse smelling the hay in the barn, or whatever that saying is. Today they were predicting a 50% chance of rain all morning, then a 70-80% chance of thunderstorms all afternoon. Not good. I was pretty lucky, though. I started off with a 6-mile connecting route, which fed into the Kewaunee River State Trail (flat, great surface), meaning I was able to run a lot. I reached Kewaunee, about 17 miles away, well before noon. No rain, other than a light mist the first mile. The rail-trail, by the way, was quite scenic, paralleling the Kewaunee River much of the time. Ran into a man with a cute puppy, Porter, on the trail (see photo).

Once in Kewaunee, I eschewed the suggested connecting route in favor of running up Hwy. 42, because it was shorter/faster. I was hoping to do about 12 miles -- up 42, through Algoma, and out to the start of the Ahnapee State Trail. I made it about halfway when the rain began to fall. I jogged another mile or two, then donned my reflective vest, as it was getting quite foggy and there was plenty of traffic along 42. Just as I entered Algoma, it began raining harder. I grabbed my folks' umbrella and walked a mile through town. With about 1.5 miles left to the Ahnapee Trail, it really began to pour and I figured why not stop? I was soaked and getting uncomfortable, and I'd made 28 miles in under 6 hours. So I hopped in my parents' car, and we drove to tonight's lodging, At the Water's Edge in Algoma.

My room is large and lovely, with a patio door opening out onto a spacious deck facing the lake. If I'm lucky and the rain goes away, I should see a killer sunrise tomorrow morning.

Tonight I took my parents out to a place I've been meaning to try: Skaliwag's. Billed as "Food that's Five Star in a Crazy Little Dive Bar," I'm here to report it's exactly that. We started off with fried shrimp with aioli sauce, then I had the New Orleans pasta, with andouille sausage and shrimp -- yum and yum. There was a small, but nice, wine list. The chef, busy as he was, chatted with us several times. And as Algoma is a small town, he knew what I was doing. The place was packed shortly after we arrived at 4:30 -- 4:30!! -- and at one point the chef yelled out to everyone that I'd just walked 1,100 miles, and the place erupted in cheers. It was pretty fun, I have to say.

I can't believe tomorrow is my last day. I can't believe I've been away from home for five weeks (my record was three). I can't believe I've had three skin infections, umpteen blisters and lost three toenails (and counting). I can't believe how strong I felt running today (amazing how great you feel when the bottoms of your feet are healthy -- no cellulitis -- and don't hurt with every step). I can't believe how many awesome people volunteered to help crew me all of this time. And, most of all, I can't believe what a beautiful, interesting, funny, fantastical state we live in.

Day 34: Connecting Route, Manitowoc, Dunes, Two Rivers, Point Beach

Today they were predicting a 50% chance of rain all day, so I figured I'd get sprinkled on at least half the day. My luck held out. It sprinkled as Mom and Dad drove me to the spot where I'd stopped last night, then stopped completely. I was resuming my trek in the middle of a connecting route, and had stopped last night in front of a farm. The farm had a German Shepherd who came bounding across the road, barking, but we knew he was friendly. The farmer was there in an instant, too. We chatted briefly; he'd noticed us stopping there last night, but of course had no idea what we were doing. There were several cranes in his field, which were quite impressive.

Speaking of cranes, I'm amazed at how they're everywhere in the state, at least at this time of year. I've seen more cranes than just about any other form of wildlife, it seems. They're so prehistoric looking and sounding.

So I'm doing about 13 miles on the roads, when I come upon Mom and Dad in yet another farmer's driveway, waiting to supply me with more water and food. They were chatting up the farming couple, explaining what I was doing. So the couple began cheering me on as I ran by. It was so cute. Then I noticed a herd of elk across the way, so I stopped and jogged back up to them. They said the elk had just been bugling, and the guy ran down the road with me a bit to see if they'd bugle again. They did, and it was such an incredible sound -- rather prehistoric again. Just like, perhaps, the sound a wooly mammoth made during the Ice Age.

When I was ready to continue, I asked the guy if he'd bring my camera, and a piece of trash from an energy waffle I'd eaten, back to my parents. He said sure, so I yelled to the woman that I was making her husband a temporary crew member. She started pumping her arms in the air, saying, "We're a part of this too, now! We're Dave and Margie by the elk!" It was pretty cute.

Manitowoc was an interesting experience. I entered the city with no blazes guiding me. I made my way to Schuette Park, where the trail was supposed to run along the river. I couldn't see any signage or blazes in the park, so I asked one of the city employees who was mowing the area. He said he knew nothing of the IAT or blazes, and that a small path led down to the river, but they didn't do any maintenance down there. I started following the path, but it was so overgrown and tiny that I was walking bent over double. When it took a steep downturn, then downed trees were everywhere, I decided it wasn't wise to follow this path. Trouble was, Manitowoc is cut by the river. So most of the streets don't go through. I probably walked a mile or two extra to get around and back to a spot where I could hook up with the trail. I didn't see one blaze on the official path until I crossed the river and hit Revere Avenue, when suddenly the route was perfectly blazed. Weird.

Although it was cloudy out, it was humid and still warm, so I was sweating up a storm. Luckily the path then ran along the lakeshore, where the temps dropped 10 degrees and I was finally -- finally -- not sweltering.

The Dunes segment was pretty, running through forest and fields, although some spots were overgrown. I saw lots of tiny, white, wooden owls attached to various trees. No idea what they were for until I spoke with the chapter chair tonight who said some tiny owl migrates through the Dunes every spring and fall, and the owls are banded and tracked. This is the season, I guess. Still not exactly sure why they tie wooden owls up there ...

Two Rivers was well blazed, and the segment ended with another lovely stretch along the cool lakeshore. Then it was into Point Beach State Park. I'd discovered this park last year on a story assignment, and loved what I'd seen. Now I got to run on the trails. The first two miles were right on the beach. It was a bit difficult, because the easiest walking was where the sand was packed down, near the water, but that area was slanted. So I had to walk on a slant for two miles. Hiker notes said it's very easy to miss the sign directing you off the beach and back into the woods, so I was staring at the woods for the last mile so I wouldn't miss it. I did see it, but I'm sure I would have missed it if I hadn't been staring to my left for 20 minutes. The trails here were soft sand and dirt, and quite runnable. It was a great way to end the day.

Have to mention more great B&Bs. I've had such wonderful experiences on this trip. Last night was a stay at the Jay Lee Inn in Elkhart Lake, very close to the La Budde segment. Great, comfy digs and one of the friendliest innkeepers you'll find. Tonight is the luxe Westport B&B in Manitowoc. This place has everything from fine, local Beerntsen's chocolates to an enormous whirlpool tub to the softest robes you'll find.

Three more days!

Day 33: Greenbush, La Budde Creek, Connecting Route

Enough with the heat already! Phew. Had to get that out of my system. Another uncomfortable day in the 70s with full sun. Lots of water dumps on my head and muttered curses. I'm actually looking forward to the rain predicted for the next few days. Or so I say now.

Finished up the Kettle this morning, much of it along the course of the Glacial Trail 50K, which I've run five times, I believe. I can't believe I raced on that trail. Now, to my weary, battered feet, it seems too rocky and unsafe for running. Ha!

La Budde Creek is near Elkhart Lake. It was kind of a scruffy path that wound through prairie and forest, but didn't seem to afford any great views. Maybe it was just the timing; the prairie was likely more impressive a few weeks earlier.

This afternoon I knocked off about 16 miles of a +30-mile connecting route. I really am enjoying this one. The roads aren't too traffic-choked, for one, and the hills are very gentle and runnable. Scenery's great, too. Once, while my parents were pulled over on the side of the road waiting for me to run up, a sheriff's deputy pulled up to make sure they were O.K. They said they were waiting for their daughter, who was doing the Ice Age Trail. The guy said, "Oh, the woman in the bright orange shirt?" Glad that birthday present from Ed makes me so visible.

Some guy ran past me in the La Budde Creek area. He said, "How many miles have you done so far?" I thought about his question for a few seconds, then said, "About 1,000." He said, "No, I mean today. I've seen you on another road earlier." He didn't react at all to the 1,000-mile comment. He must have thought I meant I've run or walked 1,000 miles in my lifetime, or perhaps in this calendar year. He didn't get it. No one I've met does.

Weight
So let's discuss weight, every woman's favorite topic. Before I started the IAT, various friends told me I had to make sure I ate enough so I didn't waste away. I assured them I wouldn't, as I had experience with long treks due to the Camino. Then, just a week into my trek, I had to go on a strong antibiotic. It made me all puffy in the face, plus gave me a bloated gut. I sure didn't look like I was wasting away.

But when my chiropractor and massage therapist  came to work on me, both commented that they could see all sorts of bones and muscles that hadn't been visible before. So I took a good look at myself in the mirror. UGH. From the waist up, I'm fairly skeletal. Anatomy students could easily identify all the bones in my entire rib cage. Of course the hefty Radzicki thighs haven't changed much. Anyway, I'm going to guess I'm down about 10 pounds. And now I know how I'd look if I was a contestant on Survivor. I will definitely enjoy putting those pounds back on starting next week.

FOUR MORE DAYS!





 

Day 32: West Bend, Southern Kewaskum, Kewaskum, Milwaukee River, Parnell

Before I get into today’s hike/run, I promised to discuss food. Food is critical to long-distance efforts. Everyone develops her own system as to what works. I like to start off my day with peanut butter and jelly on toast, plus coffee. During the day I eat mainly energy bars and similar products, with a pre-packaged peanut butter and jelly “Uncrustable” for lunch (great source of protein, carbs and fat). But that alone won’t cut it. I need treats, too. My favorite? Seroogy’s meltaways.

Seroogy’s is a +100-year-old candy maker in De Pere. Ironically (and sadly), I never heard of them during my four years at St. Norbert College. Years later I learned of the company, and quickly developed a fondness for its meltaway line. Then, after purchasing a bunch of these candy bars during a fundraiser, I packed them when I tackled the Camino. They were magical. Whenever I didn’t think I could make it to the next town, I’d tell myself I could have a big bite of my candy bar when I got there, and somehow my feet kept moving. One of the saddest days was when I eagerly unwrapped my bar, only to find it had melted in my pack (it was in the 80s). I’m not embarrassed to say I licked the wrapper clean. So I’ve got a boat load of Seroogy’s chocolates with me (mint, chocolate and mocha, if you must know). And whenever I start dragging, or get cranky about all of the rocks hurting my feet, I take a big bite of my candy bar when I next see my crew. Oh, and when the day is done, I eat a dinner worthy of a lumberjack.

Now on to today. I was a bit of a Miss Crabby Pants to start. My feet were feeling pretty good, but the West Bend segment was so rocky, it caused them to ache immediately. Then I got them pretty wet during the Southern Kewaskum segment, which caused all of my bandages to slip off and around in my socks. It was also very warm out for the gazillionth day – temps topped out around 80 – and I began dumping water over my head early in the day. I was not happy. But things improved.

The Kewaskum segment was quite beautiful, especially some of the parts in the open prairie that topped the rolling hills. At one point I popped out on top of a ski hill and ran down, which was pretty funny. I was able to walk the brand-new section of the Milwaukee River segment, which was also very pretty and had great footing to boot. And then I entered Northern Kettle Moraine, baby! Yes, another landmark.

Unfortunately, much of the Milwaukee River and Parnell segments were very rocky, which my feet didn’t like. Still, I was able to run a bunch, and that always makes me happy. My parents took over as my crew, and pampered me. (Love the candy corn flavored m&ms, Mom and Dad!)

Tonight I’m staying at the Irish-themed Rochester Inn in Sheboygan Falls. It’s a very nice place with those all-important amenities: a comfy bed and whirlpool to soak my feet. 

I have just FIVE days to go. Sturgeon Bay, here I come.