Trails sure do get in your blood. I finished the 1,000-kilometer
Vía de la Plata Camino a few years ago — it's an ancient pilgrimage trail in
Spain — and am halfway through running/hiking it a second time (I hope to do
the second half in spring 2014). And of course I just did our spectacular Ice
Age National Scenic Trail. So now that I'm heading to a travel writers'
conference in Biloxi on Sunday, I figured I had to stay an extra week to bike
the famous Natchez Trace.
I'd rather hike a trail than bike one, but the Trace is
different from the other 10 National Scenic Trails in that it's a parkway that roughly
follows the route of the original Natchez Trace. So you can either drive the
route or bike it, but there's no hiking. Well, there are some spots along the
way where you can get out of your car or off of your bike and hike a mile or so
on the original Trace, but there's no continuous, off-road route. Still, it
looks beautiful, and it's historic, and I'll be right there, so of course I
have to do it.
For those of you who have never heard of the Trace, or have
heard of it but don't know what it is, it's a path that was first carved into
the earth hundreds of years ago by Native Americans and buffalo traveling
between what is now Natchez, Mississippi and Nashville, Tennessee. These
primitive trails were enlarged a bit to form the southwest's first national "highway"
after the U.S. government negotiated treaties with the local Chickasaw and
Choctaw Indians in 1801.
Yes, there was a lot of commerce among the pioneers back
then. And yes, there were plenty of pioneers in this part of the country. But
the Trace was hardly a state-of-the-art road. It was a dirt path where oppressive
heat, mosquitoes, swollen rivers and mucky swamps made journeys even harder. It
was difficult to find a place to sleep and eat, and if you broke a limb or came
down with an infection (of which I know a thing or two), well, you just might
die. Still, it was all people had, and they made great use of it. Such great
use, that the innumerable footsteps of past pioneers left enormous trenches in
the land that time has still not erased.
So I'm putting the final touches on my itinerary and am
seeing what snacks I have left from the IAT that I can throw into my suitcase. (Thank
goodness I have a few Seroogy's candy bars left — those are definitely going
with me.) Will I be recovered enough to bike 444 miles after just
running/hiking 1,100? Well, there's only one way to find out!
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